WW1 Trenches Kenya: A Battlefield Tour Guide to Taita Hills from Lions Bluff

WW1 Battlefield

On the way to Lion’s Bluff, I passed a sign saying WW1 Battlefield. My mind was immediately intrigued, and I thought, was this the British? 

So, I asked the guide, and he offered to take me there later on in the week. I went alone and to be honest, its quite tough to find. The grass was high, and we had to search for a while, go down sketchy tracks, but in the end we made it.

Raised Machine Gun platform

Historical Facts

The Taita Hills served as a vital lookout over the Tsavo plains to protect the Uganda Railway from German raiding parties based in nearby Taveta. 

The Voi-Taveta Railway or “the old railway” which is up in the hills was a military line built rapidly in 1915. The aim of the line was strategic. It was used to move British and Allied troops toward the German border. 

There was a global force of platoons in Taita Hills. It was a military strategic area where the trenches were manned by all coalitions. This included the King’s African Rifles, Indian Army units and British Regiments fighting in extreme bush conditions. 

Now, when I say extreme bush conditions, I really mean it. Here I was 100 years later and it took us a while to find the trenches in a 4x4 Safari Jeep. This is because it was hidden in a remote area where there is nothing. 

Sorry, I should say, nothing but ticks, insects that want to eat you and wildlife.

Taking a breath and looking around, I felt for the soldiers in the dugouts and trenches.

What these soldiers endured during WW1. But then I also thought, why don’t I know this?

Who knew the Germans were in Africa? Or that there were African soldiers. I don’t want to sound naive, but this part of history is definitely missing from Hollywood. 

WW1 Taita Hills Trench Map

Exciting lessons in History

So, I love a good story about the Germans. You might not know I am British and lived in Germany for many years. I have so many amazing German friends and the women, are different, at least the older generation. So when I heard this story, I loved it. 

I don’t know the ins and outs of it all, but in TSAVO hills near the ocean there are a few Boabab trees. These trees are extremely old and large. So a German female sniper, dug out the Boabab tree and targeted British soldiers for days. She was discovered after a few days, but what a story! Kenya Geographic related information.

Also, because the Terrain here is terrible, the Germans built huge dummy forts to trap the British and African soldiers. However, when you see the location of Taita Hills, it is impressive, I am sure it was extremely well hidden and tactical. 

King's African Rifle Soldier Mural

Unity

What unity. If you see the map and the crowded conditions and think that soldiers from 3 continents were here battling together. This is actually a remarkable feat. It shows integrity and a will to survive for your country. I don’t want to romanticise it as romantic it is not.

It must have been hell. But I love the global force of nationalities together in these terrible conditions. 

WW1 African Soldier Memorial

So how do you get there?

The exact name of where I visited is called Mwashoti Fort.

Well if you are staying in Tatia Hills or Lion’s Bluff it is relatively easy. However, hold on to the “relatively.” We still had to really find it. Which added to the adventure. Follow the route from the WW1 Battlefield and your guide will have to go off road for a while. Ensure your guide has been there before, as it is easy to miss the turning or miss it completely if he is not experienced.

Vehicle: High-clearance 4x4 only. The tracks to the machine gun points are not maintained.

Landmarks: Look for the stone "Dugout Command Centre" marker. If you haven't seen this, you haven't found the main site.

GPS Co-ordinates

Landmark	Approximate GPS Coordinates	Tactical Significance
Mwashoti Fort (Trenches)	-3.4833, 38.3167	The main British defensive ridge where we found the dugout.
Mile 27 (Maili 27) Bridge	-3.4750, 38.3410	Site of the German ambush on the military supply train.
Lions Bluff Lodge	-3.5133, 38.2197	Where I stayed for this battlefield exploration.
Taita Hills Museum	-3.4267, 38.2561	Located in the Taita Hills Safari Resort; excellent for context before the trek.

Memorial to WW1 Unamed African Soldiers

What should I wear?

You need to be completely covered. No shorts, flip-flops etc. Go in cargo trousers, tuck them into your socks, or wear boots, a hat and long sleeves. 

Take a drink or some food in case you get lost.

I would go in the morning to avoid the heat and to take great pictures. 

Protection: DEET-based insect repellent is mandatory. The ticks in the high grass are relentless.

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What can I see?

You can see WW1 Taita Hills Trenches

• Several memorials for the soldiers

• Raised machine gun platforms

• Stone battlefield map

• The old railway line

• Map of the trenches

Is it worth visiting the WW1 Taita Hills Trenches?

Well I loved it. I love history and I felt part of this history. We could not walk all the trenches as the grass and ticks in Green Season were unbearable. But if you are on a Safari in Lion’s Bluff in August to January, it should be perfect weather for the whole experience. 

Taita Hills Military Facts

Category	Tactical Data	Visitor Value
Forces Involved	250,000 Allied troops: King’s African Rifles, Indian Army, British, and South African units.	See where three continents united in a single trench line.
Casualties	Roughly 10,000 Allied soldiers died. Disease (malaria/dysentery) caused 75% of these losses.	Understand the extreme survival conditions of the 1915 bush war.
Success Rate	Initial failures at Salaita Hill, but successfully captured Taveta in 1916 using these hills as a base.	Stand on the high ground where the British finally turned the tide.
The Carrier Corps	Over 400,000 African porters provided all logistics; an estimated 40,000 died from exhaustion.	Honour the unsung logistics force that made the mountain campaign possible.